Tuesday, 8 March 2011

Getting close to Santa's Vacation Home

While the Buenos Aires heat provided a nice break from the Boston cold, the weather in El Calafate was much more temperate and to my liking. Checked into a very new and clean hostel. I suspect it use to exist as a hotel but went out of business and then relieved as a hostel. It was out of the city (the city being one main street 20 minutes long) so I could see spectacular views of the Patagonian mountains and desert.

Trekking on the Perito Moreno glacier constituted the next activity. The rainy weather and low visibility made up for its morale dampening effects by causing the glacier to calve much more often than normal; the rain melts the ice faster than the sun. Sometimes the loudest sounds came from teeny tiny pieces of ice. That meant that rather then simply breaking off because of calving, the ice had been compressed so much that it exploded outwards. After hiking around the viewing area and running to the nearest open spot whenever I heard a sound, I boarded a boat and headed to the glacier itself for a walk on Perito Moreno itself ! I was fitted with crampons that must have been similar to the first designs ever and enjoyed a wonderful 90 minute hike over the deep blue ice. At the end of the hike, the guides said we were finished hiking and heard back to take crampons off. But then the group rounded a bend and we were surprised with whiskey poured over glacial ice and dulce de leche (caramel) "alfajores". A layer of dulce de leche between two wafers that was then dipped in chocolate, a staple of South American treats.


Location:El Calafate